CHAR DHAM YATRA 1
Journey To The Heavens
By Smita Choudhary & Shubhranshu Choudhary with inputs for Kedarnath from Rakesh Shukla & Laxmi Murthy

YAMUNOTRI, GANGOTRI, KEDARNATH, BADRINATH

One of the most accessible yatras in India is also one of the most arduous, though the long line of vehicles snaking their way up roads hewn into the fragile Himalaya might convince you otherwise. On the way to Yamunotri, traditionally the first destination, the sacred Yamuna accompanies yatris up to her source through the spectacularly scenic Rawaai Ghati, leaving us breathless not just because of the altitude. We become increasingly accustomed to the rarefied atmosphere but nothing prepares us for the stunning setting of Gangotri, our next dham, which overlooks the tumul­tuous River Bhagirathi and is surrounded by rugged mountains and ancient deodar forests. We then descend to Kedarnath for an uplifting walk in floating clouds as snowy peaks tower beyond stark mountain faces. Finally, we pay homage to Vishnu at Badrinath, where the lord meditates by the banks of the Alaknanda as the vivid colours of his temple present a cheerful foreground to the magnificent Neelkanth Peak. On these four different journeys, sometimes under­taken in combi­nations of continuity and sometimes independently, Dev Bho­omi, the sacred Himalaya, welcomes mere mortals for a journey to the heavens.

YAMUNOTRI
High up in a deep cleft on the western face of the Banderpoonch Peak is Yamunotri, traditionally the first destination on the Char Dham Yatra. The picturesque journey to Yamunotri is along the River Yamuna itself. The main temple here is dedicated to Goddess Yamuna, who is represented by a black marble idol. The other deity is a white image of Goddess Ganga. Just outside the main temple is the Divya Shila, a dark rock from which springs a stream of very hot water. This is a most holy area, the origin of the Yamuna, and pilgrims offer puja here before going to the temple. Technically, the cold stream source of the river is on the Champasar Glacier, near Saptarishi Kund, a trek of 1 km above the shrine, beyond Yamunotri. But, at 14,500 ft above sea level, across very difficult terrain, it is not accessible to the average yatri.  

According to legend, Surya Dev, the Sun God, married Sandhya, daughter of Vishwakarma. They had twins, Yama and Yamuna. But Sandhya could not bear the fierce heat of the Sun. She created her clone, Chhaya, and begged her to take her place. Without telling anyone the truth, Sangya then left Surya Dev’s home. Chhaya agreed to keep the secret but said she would reveal the truth if ever Surya Dev punished her by pulling her hair. One day, the child Yama tried to strike Chhaya with his leg. An affronted Chhaya cursed him that his leg would rot and fall off.  Surya Dev was very surprised and angered by the severity of the curse, that too from a mother against her own child. In anger, he pulled her hair. Chhaya then revealed that she was not his true wife, and only a stepmother to Yama and Yamuna. It is said that Yamuna came down to earth and did severe penance to save her brother from the effects of the curse and succeeded in her efforts. Yama, the god of death, then offered her a boon. She asked that her devotees be protected from akaalmrityu (untimely death). It is believed that a bath in the holy waters of Yamu­notri will protect the devotee from an untimely death and lead to the attainment of moksha. It is believed that the hot spring at Divya Shila is the blessing of Surya Dev for his daugh­ter; the tank next to the Divya Shila is named after him.

Pilgrims take a holy dip in the hot waters of the Taptkund next to the main temple in Yamunotri, which gets its water from the Suryakund nearby. There are separate bathing tanks and enclosures for men and women. Then puja is offered at the Divya Shila. This is of great signif­icance, and is done before visiting the main temple. After this, a small offering of rice and potatoes is cooked in the Suryakund. This is offered to the deity in the main temple, and returned to the pilgrim as prasad. Pilgrims carry water from Yamu­notri to offer it to Krishna in their homes during Janmashtami or on other special occasions related to Krishna. It is believed that Yamuna was one of Lord Krishna’s eight queens.

In 1816, James Frazer, a British Army officer, reached Yamunotri. He found a 3-foot high temple built of stone and a priest performing worship there. There were some tridents to show that other devotees had also been visiting. A record of his visit is available. Subsequently, local kings contributed to the setting up of the temple. Around 1850, Sudharshan Shah, the king of Tehri, had a wooden structure built and the deity consecrated. Later, Pratap Shah rebuilt the temple in stone. But heavy snow in the region periodically damages the temple (this happened last in 1982), and reconstruction has been done many times. The Surajmal Jalan Trust renovated the temple, and this work was completed in 1994. The temple is run by the Panch Panda Samiti of about 200 priests. When the temple closes in winter, the deity is taken to Kharsali Village (2 km from Janki Chatti across the river), its winter abode.

The Yamuna Valley, called Rawaai Ghaati, is decidedly most spectacular for its scenic beauty. The mountain roads are very narrow with frequent twists, and the view is a surprise around every bend. The Yamuna flows wild all along the journey because the dark mountain ranges are close to each other and there is no long straight stretch of water. The vegetation is lush but does not restrict the view one gets across the ranges.

En route, Barkot is an interesting and very scenic halt. This is an area where the mountain ranges open up. Stepped rice fields and red-topped choulai (a variant of spinach) fields seem to be arranged for the pleasure of the visitor. The drive from Barkot to Janki Chatti should be done at a leisurely pace, if time permits, that is. The flowers in the Phul Chatti area present several charming photo opportunities.

Timings 6 am-8 pm Season The temple opens on Akshay Tritiya (May) and closes on Yama Dwitiya, or Bhai Duj, the second day after Diwali (Nov)

Related info Aarti timings 6.30 am and 7.30 pm. There is no temple committee and hence no formal office. Janmashtami and Diwali herald special pujas

GANGOTRI
The shrine of Gangotri overlooks the thundering River Bhagirathi and is set in the middle of rugged mountains and deodar forests at 9,980 ft above sea level. Gangotri is the spiritual source of India’s holiest river, the Ganga. Here, Ganga is known as Bhagirathi, named after the ancient king Bhagirath, who performed penance to bring her down from the heavens. It is believed that bathing in her waters brings deliverance from sins com­mit­ted in the present and past births. The actual source of the river is the ice cave of Gaumukh (see page 791).

According to legend, a Suryavanshi king Sagar decided to perform the Ashwamedh Yagna (horse sacrifice). His 60,000 sons conquered the territories that the horse crossed. Indra felt threatened by their success. He stole the horse and tied it in Kapil Muni’s ashram. Sagar’s sons followed the horse into the ashram and were disrespectful to the seer, who cursed them. All 60,000 of them were turned into ashes. The king beseeched the seer for forgiveness, but the curse could not be reversed. However, Kapil Muni suggested that if the holy Ganga, the river of heaven, were to come down to the earth, the touch of her waters would ensure the deliverance of the princes. Many descendants of Sagar failed in their efforts to bring the holy Ganga to earth, until Bhagirath was born. He persevered in his prayers until Ganga agreed to come down to the earth from the heavens. But such was her power that her descent was sure to cause havoc. Thus Bha­gi­rath prayed to Lord Shiva, who agreed to contain Ganga in his locks, from where he released a few drops of her celes­tial waters. The river thus flowed on earth, cleansing all that was impure in her path and delivering the sons of Sagar from their curse.

The temple at Gangotri, believed to have been consecrated by Adi Shankara­charya, was built by Amar Singh Thapa, the Gorkha captain, in the 18th century. Made of white stone, it is situated on the left bank of the Bhagirathi. It is about 20 ft high and stands on a raised platform. The shrine is decorated with a gilded roof and crowned with a central spire. The Maharaja of Jaipur, Madhosingh, renovated the temple in 1935, which possibly explains the Raja­sthani style of architecture in its appear­ance. Near the temple is the Bhagirath Shila, a stone slab where King Bhagirath meditated. Goddess Ganga is the main deity in the temple. Apart from her, Yamuna, Shiva, Saraswati, Annapurna and Mahadurga are worshipped here.

Hindus perform shraadh and pinda daan rites for their ancestors on a specific day in the lunar calendar based on certain calculations. The Gangotri shraadh and pind daan, it is believed, can be done on any day of the year, and once performed on the banks of Bhagirathi, lead to deliverance of all the devotee’s forefathers. Hence, it is truly the freeing of spirits from the cycle of rebirth. On reaching the shrine, pilgrims offer prayers at the temple and go down to the main bathing ghat next to the river. Water is collected for use during auspicious occasions at home, as well as for offering to a person just before his death. Also, the Ganga jal from Gangotri is traditionally offered at Kedarnath and Rames­waram.

Timings 6.15 am-2 pm, 3-9.30 pm (summer); 6.45 am-2 pm, 3-7 pm (as winter approaches) Season The temple opens on the day of Akshay Tritiya (May) and closes down on Yama Dwitiya or Bhai Duj 

Related info Temple activities start at 4 am, when priests perform utthan (awakening) and shringar (adornment), which is not open to public. Priests perform a mangalaarti at 6 am, also behind closed doors. At 9 am, the temple is closed for 10 mins for rajbhog; at 6.30 pm for 10 mins for shringar; at 8 pm for 5 mins again for rajbhog. The Sandhya Aarti is at 7.45 pm but, as winter nears (after Janmashtami in Aug-Sep), it is advanced to 7 pm. It is better to check timings from the temple upon reaching. Rajbhog (min Rs 11; on the day we were there it was freshly cooked sweet rice) is available in the temple samiti office on payment.

Devotees generally stop at Gangnani (70 km from Dharasu en route to Gangotri; the same whether travelling from Rishikesh or Yamunotri) where Parashar Muni used to have his ashram, for a bath in the hot water springs here. A special shringar puja is performed on Ganga Saptami in Vaishakh (Apr), when Ganga is said to have descended to earth. Ganga Dussehra, which celebrates the birth of Ganga as the day on which Lord Shiva offered Bhagirathi to Bhagirath, is in Jyeshtha (May). Village deities are brought in palanquins from around the region to participate in a procession, in which the golden crown of the deity at the Gangotri Temple is taken, led by a statue of Bhagirath. A havan is performed near the riverbank. Apart from this, Janmashtami (Aug-Sep), Vijaya­dashmi (Oct) and Diwali (Nov) are also special days. On Yama Dwitiya, the golden crown of the main deity, and the statue of Bhagirath and Annapurna, are taken to the Mukhwa Village nearby, in a procession

KEDARNATH
The northernmost Jyotirlinga, tradition­ally the third stop in the Char Dham Yatra, after Yamunotri and Gangotri, is located at 11,746 ft above sea level, close to the source of the holy River Mandakini. The experience of offering holy water from Gangotri, to he who held the holy Ganga in his locks, can only be described as divine. From Gaurikund, the roadhead, Kedarnath is a 14-km trek northwards, which can be negotiated on foot, or on ponies or palanquins hoisted by four men. The trek to Kedarnath is along the River Mandakini. It is an uplifting experience to walk by stark mountain faces, snow peaks, spectacular waters, flowers and floating clouds.  The trek is a steady ascent along a stone paved path in large parts through a thick forest of Himalayan oak, rhodo­dendrons and a profusion of ferns. It is steep until Garuda Chatti (about 10 km from Gaurikund) after which the path levels out until you reach Kedarnath. On a clear day, about 2 km out of Gaurikund, one can spot the snow-covered Sumeru Peak — the spectacular backdrop of the Kedarnath temple — in all its majesty.

According to the Vayu Purana, Vishnu as Narayan came down to the earth for the good of mankind. He landed at Badrinath, which was then the abode of Shiva. On Narayan’s request, Shiva accepted Kedar as his permanent abode. Kedarnath is also part of the Panch Kedar Yatra.

Adi Shankaracharya attained samadhi at the age of 32 in the shrine seen behind the Kedarnath Temple. He appointed celibate Veera Shaiva priests as the rawals  (chief priests) of Kedarnath. At present, the 337th rawal is holding the seat governed from Ukhimath, which is also the abode of the deity during winter. There are also local priests from the villages around Guptkashi and Ukhimath. They are not part of the temple committee but they take care of the pilgrims on the basis of their place of origin, having divided the country between themselves into 360 districts for admin­istrative purposes. 

The Katyuri-style temple stands against the backdrop of lofty, snow-covered peaks. It is built with extremely large, heavy and evenly cut grey slabs of stones and has a wooden ceiling, topped by a gold kalash. Outside the temple door, a massive stone idol of Nandi stands guard. The temple has three parts: the garbhagriha, the darshan mandap where pujas are conducted, and the sabha mandap where devotees assem­ble. The inner walls of the assembly hall are decorated with figures of various deities and scenes from mythology. Pilgrims also worship idols of Ganesh with Riddhi and Siddhi, Parvati, Vishnu and Lakshmi, Krishna, Kunti, Draupadi, Yudhi­shthir, Bhim, Arjun, Nakul and Sahdev. Pilgrims offer butter and ghee to the Jyotirlinga and then embrace it, touching it with their forehead. In the months of July-August-September, the rare Brahma Kamal flowers bloom in the area.

Timings 6 am-2 pm, 5-8 pm Season The opening date of the Kedarnath Temple is not fixed. It is decided every year on Shivaratri (mid-Feb) by the panch purohit (five priests) in Ukhimath and then announced and communi­cated through various agencies. It usually falls around mid-May. The closing date is, however, fixed and falls on Yama Dwitiya or Bhai Duj. The temples at Yamunotri and Gangotri close on the same day. The main rush of pilgrims takes place in May-Jun. Nobody lives in Kedarnath after the temple gates are closed for winter. The pandas return to Guptkashi, and the rawals live in Ukhimath, the winter abode of Kedarnath

Related info Pilgrims offer silver-plated bilva patras (leaves of the bilva tree), which are available just outside the temple, and also in Gaurikund, to the lord. Holy water from Gangotri is also a special offering. Bhog is offered by the priests at 4 pm. Pilgrims can assemble for it in the mandap, but are not allowed in the garbhagriha. The Shravani Annnakoot Mela is celebrated on the day before Raksha Bandhan (mid-Aug). On that day, the Jyotirlinga is covered with cooked rice, which is distributed as prasad. On the day the temple closes for winter, a special samadhi puja is held. There is no special or VIP darshan. However, pilgrims who visit by helicopter, which has to return as soon as possible due to changing weather conditions, can have darshan imm­ediately. Shringar darshan is from 5 pm onwards. Aarti is performed at 6.45 pm. During the peak May-Jun season, devotees may have to wait 3-4 hrs for darshan. They start queuing up from 2 am. The temple committee office (open 6 am-8 pm, closed 4-5 pm) undertakes bookings for special pujas, which are performed between 4 and 6 am, i.e. before the temple opens for general darshan. But when the rush is greater, special pujas start just after midnight and continue till 6 am. Apart from special puja during the visit, devotees can also arrange for special puja to be performed on fixed days during the year, for a period of 20 yrs. Drafts have to made payable at SBI Ukhimath and mailed to Gauri Mai Mandir, Ukhimath, District Rudraprayag, Uttaranchal; Enquiry Tel: 01364-269204, 267228

BADRINATH
Against the backdrop of the Neelkanth Peak, nestled between the Nara and Narayana mountains, by the banks of the River Alaknanda, at an altitude of 10,276 ft above sea level, is Badrinath. According to legend, Lord Vishnu himself meditated here, while his consort Lakshmi took the form of a berry (badri) tree to offer him shade. Although the berry tree is not seen anymore, the name Badrinarayan stayed. Narad, his main devotee, also stayed here.

Another charming legend associated with the Badrinath Temple is that of the Ghanta Karn, a devout bhakt of Shiva who hung huge bells over his ears so that he would not have to hear the name of any other god, including Vishnu. After severe penance, when Shiva offered him a boon, he asked for salvation. Shiva, knowing of Ghanta Karn’s partiality and wanting him to accept Vishnu’s divinity as well, told him that only Vishnu could grant him salvation. Saddened, because he did not expect Vishnu to give him anything after his stated antagonism, Ghanta Karn nevertheless immersed himself completely in Vishnu’s worship. The lord, who is known to love his devotees, blessed Ghanta Karn and offered him a place at his temple in Badrinath, making him the lokpal (guardian deity) of the region.

When Buddhism became the domi­nant religion in India, the idol of Badri­nath was thrown into the Narad Kund nearby. But Adi Shankaracharya retrieved it and re-installed the deity for worship. He appointed a Namboodri Brahmin from Kerala, Gopal, as rawal at Badrinath, which tradition still continues. The British Government took over the management of the temple in 1939 and, since then, Namboodri, Choli or Mukani rawals, all from Kerala, have worked under the temple committee appointed by the government. The same tradition has continued in independent India. Thus, the Keralite rawals are assisted by local vedpathis and priests from the local Dibri community prepare the bhog and help rawals in performing puja.

The presiding deity is a meditating Lord Vishnu in black stone. The original 3 ft x 9 inch idol has been damaged but during shringar, sandalwood paste is applied on the idol, which is gorgeously dressed in ornaments and flowers. Recently, a devotee contributed a seat of gold for the god. A group of idols in the temple, which include Ganesh, Lakshmi, Nar, Narayan, Kuber, Uddhav, Garuda and Narad, form the ‘Badrish Panchayat’. Ghanta Karn is also worshipped here as the protector of the region. Just past the Singha Dwar of the temple is an image of Garuda, the lord’s vehicle. Traditionally, the yatra to Kedar­nath is undertaken before coming to Badrinath. For the devotee who has been unable to do this, the temple of Adi Kedar­eshwar nearby is to be visited first.

It is believed that the lamp lit on the day of the closure of the temple for winter, remains lit throughout, till the temple doors are reopened at the onset of summer, on which day devotees come for the sacred Jyoti Darshan. Devotees offer pinda daan for their ancestors at the holy Brahma Kapal Tirth, just outside the main gate of the Badrinath Temple, on the banks of Alaknanda, after which, it is believed, no other shraadh is necessary.

The original Badrinarayan Temple, built in the time of Adi Shankaracharya, has been re-built several times over because of damage caused by avalanches and snowfall. The present temple, with a gilded cupola, was built two centuries ago by the kings of Garhwal. Its main attraction is the Singha Dwar, which resembles a Tibetan gompa from a distance. Painted in very bright colours, it stands out in sharp contrast against the 15-m high stone temple, and the backdrop of moun­tains. Facing the temple, by the banks of the Alaknanda River, is a hot water spring that is known as Taptkund, a bath in which is very refreshing for all travellers. There are separate bathing enclosures made for men and women.

Timings 4 am-noon, 3-9 pm Season Opening dates for the temple are fixed on Basant Panchami (Feb). The decision is taken by the Raj Purohit of Tehri Maharaj at the Narendranagar Palace. The day of closure is decided on Vijayadashmi (mid-Oct) by the dharmadhikari of the temple committee in Badrinath. Both the dates are announced by various channels of communi­cation to the public. After the gate closure only around 25 people remain in Badrinath for the remaining 6 months, including security staff and a few sadhus. After the temple closes down for winter in Nov, the deity is carried to Pandukeshwar (21 km north-west) for worship

Related info Leather items have to be left outside the temple. Special pujas, which are performed by the rawal between 4.30 and 6.30 am before the temple is opened to the public, can be booked by paying money at the temple com­mittee office inside the temple. Devotees can also arrange for special pujas to be performed on fixed days during the year, on their behalf, for the following 20 yrs. Enquiries and bookings can be made at Mandir Samiti office, Joshimath; Enquiry Tel: 01389-222083/ 124; Address: CEO, Badrinath Mandir Samiti, Badrinath Dham, Uttaranchal. Bhog (semi-cooked rice is what we had) can be received by paying Rs 30 at the temple committee office inside the temple.

The Mata Murti ka Mela is celebrated on Bavan Dwadashi (Sep-Oct), when the statue of Uddhavji is taken to the temple of Mata Murti, 3 km away, and brought back the same day. Krishna Janmashtami (Jul-Aug) and Badri-Kedar Utsav (Jun-Jul) are also important events.

The five-day winter closing ceremony is an annual ritual. On Day 1, after a special puja, the gates of the Ganesh Temple are closed. On Day 2, after a special puja, the gates of the Adi Kedareshwar Temple are closed. On Day 3 there is a special worship of books, after which the Ved path (studying the Vedas) and mantrochar (the reciting of mantras) are stopped. On Day 4, there is a special puja of Goddess Lakshmi but the gates of her shrine are not closed. On the 5th and final day, there is a special shringar puja of Badrinath before the main temple is also closed.

The statue of Lakshmi is brought into the main temple on this day, while the statues of Uddhav and Kuber are taken to Pandukeshwar on a silver palanquin, in a procession till the Badrinath Bus Stand, and thereafter by vehicle. Badrinath is the most well-equipped pilgrimage location in the Char Dham Yatra. There are arrangements to suit all pockets and tastes at Badrinath. The State Bank of India has an ATM that is adjacent to the shrine