The surprising fact is that Kota has a history — industrial towns with power and atomic plants aren’t supposed to, belonging as they do to the genre of sci-fi cities. Kota’s broad avenues, leafy roads and its status as a divisional headquarter of the Indian Army further hide its ancient beginnings. But Kota is as much a child of fractious history as its fellow Rajput kingdoms, born of blood, gore and diplomacy.

It was in 1241 (or 1341, depending on who’s telling the story) that a classic Rajput, Deva Hara of the fierce Hara clan, came to these parts, wanted what he saw and attempted to conquer. He won and the kingdom of Bundi was established. Around that time, nearby Kota was under the Bhil tribals led by their chief Koteya. He was defeated by Bundi’s Jait Singh in 1264 (or 1364) and a fort’s construction was started there. Koteya’s severed head was buried, as tradition decreed, in its foundation. And so Kota became a jagir, or land grant, of Bundi, at the dispen­sation of the heir apparent.

However, in 1624, the Mughal Emper­or Jehangir agreed to separate Kota from Bundi and award it to Rao Madho Singh, a Hara scion. Kota suddenly found itself an independent kingdom, lying on a major trade route that regularly saw marching armies and camel trains. Continuing independence in those days was often dependent on taking the right side in the frequent Mughal quarrels. Kota had to come of age quickly. Its rulers became more savvy, more open to foreign influences, willing to make expedient treaties. It soon overshadowed Bundi, which remained provincial and secretive. It’s a difference that can be seen in some ways in both the cities to this day.