The beginnings of what would be called the ‘Scotland of the East’ go back to 1862-64, when the British obtained two large plots in the Khasi Hills through their sharpest weapon — coercive negotiations. The agreement that saw the growth of Shillong, among India’s most prized hill stations, was extracted from Mylliem, one of the 25 Khasi states ruled by elected rajas.

Shillong is a pleasant 3-hr ride from Guwahati and as the city approaches, nature suddenly seems to put on its best face. All along the road, the scenes are laid out in true splendour and viewing points are hoisted to vantage heights. And as soon as you reach Umiam Lake, a little before Shillong, the mercury drops dramatically — as much as by 10 degrees in summer. Non-partisan nature must have extended such a welcome even to Britishers who wandered this far.