The moment the bus trundles ahead of Alto de Porvorim on NH17 and emerges onto the bridge, Panjim-on-the-Mandovi rises up to greet the traveller. Old villas and church spires peek out between the tourist hostels jostling for attention, just behind the waterfront. As you drive into the city, even the newer monstrosities on Altinho can’t erase the elegance of this old colonial town, with its shaded boulevards and heritage mansions. Adding a dab of Portugal to its shapely temples, and a touch of local levity into the haughty customs of the Iberians, Panjim’s combined heritage is neither Portuguese nor Indian, but affirmatively Goan.

The graceful Mandovi, tolerating all comers from laden barges to cruise boats full of noisy revellers, holds the history of Goa in its waters. Along the Mandovi the Portuguese sailed into what is now Old Goa, displacing the Adilshah of Bijapur and scattering the terrified local populace out of their imperious way. They stayed over for four centuries, in the bargain changing the landscape of Goa forever.

Along the riverbank near Panjim, a white-washed church rises high out of the rich green paddy fields of Britona. The thick mangroves of Chorao dotted with birds crowd the river to the east. Across from the capital, boats full of holidaying revellers share the water with ferries from Betim Jetty.  And, in the west, the ruined forts of Reis Magos and Aguada still keep a close watch on their river. This is a perfect picture of Goa, every inch covered with palm trees, every sleepy village full of character. And then there are the beaches.

There’s always something to discover around Panjim, where every beach, every village is a weekend destination in its own right. There’s never enough time to exhaust all possibilities in the eternal Land of Good Times.