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CHANDIPUR
A Sea To Walk On
By Sarojini Nayak

It’s true that Chandipur Beach doesn’t make a good first impression. The sands aren’t golden and the sea isn’t even blue. Why would you come here then? Perhaps for that magical experience of watching the waves play hide-and-seek with the shore. Twice everyday, the waters touch the beach only to move far back, leaving behind a brown, sandy seabed that appears to stretch endlessly. At low tide, the sea recedes by as much as an unbelievable 5 km.

Walking on the empty seabed is a fascinating experience. There are small puddles of water with tiny fish, seashells scattered here and there, and red crabs that quickly disappear into the sand at the sound of an approaching footstep. As the tide rises, the waters start trickling towards the shore. This is a signal for you to walk back to the shore, perhaps along with the water. In a few hours, the water reaches the shore and at high tide, the waves start to gently lap on the shore. The water is brown and muddy, but it’s absolutely safe for swimming — there are no undercurrents or quicksand. As a local remarked, tongue firmly in cheek, “The sea is so safe here that even if you try, you cannot commit suicide.”   

ORIENTATION
Chandipur is a small seaside retreat, with a few hotels and shops, and a sprinkling of houses. The Main Road leads to the beach and most hotels are located here. The bazaar area is called Sunarpur Chhak, and it is about 1 km from the beach. There is no beachfront as such, and the main access to the beach opens from the Panthanivas garden.

All the places in Chandipur are within walking distance. Autos are also available and fares are negotiable; usually the rate from one place to another is between Rs 15 and 25. Tourist assistance is also available at Panthanivas.
This article appears in Outlook Traveller Getaways’ Beach Holidays in India . For more about the book, and more excerpts, click here.

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