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MANDVI PALACE BEACH
The Star-Sprangled Sea
By Amit Mahajan

The white cherub-like moon was still hovering above the pale tents when I got up. Having seen the full moon rise the previous evening, I wanted to watch it disappear at dawn. I came out from under the trees into the sweeping expanse of sand, and at the other end of the world, the sun, as if created by some mysterious processes deep beneath the rumbling surface of the ocean, peeked hesitantly, red-faced above the horizon, and then emerged confidently in its white glory. The beach was beautifully proportioned: a wide and even stretch of white sand near the water, sloping gradually into the sea, offering, at high tide, pool-like waters that changed step by step from knee-deep to shoulder-high. The breakfast in the open wood-and-bamboo restaurant was long and lazy, like the beach.

After breakfast I made my way to the edge of the white stretch of the beach and settled there with a book. The palm tree above me had long drooping leaves, reminiscent of the sad neck of a camel in captivity, but it gave ample shade from the sun. I was waiting for the sun and the water to rise higher — the water high enough to be swim-able and frolic-able, and the sun warm enough to make the water nice and inviting.

Also waiting at the edge of the water was a lonely cormorant and a group of seagulls. A few crabs were busy scurrying in the sand, and occasionally a group of small birds flew by, grazing the undulating surface of water — a sport, or a productive activity — who was I to say. For them, the two might not be as divorced as they are in our lives.

ORIENTATION
The Beach at Mandvi Palace, as the resort here is called, is located close to Mandvi Palace as well as the beach, which is part of its property (not to be confused with the Mandvi Beach itself, which is in the town). On the road from Mandvi Town, turn left at the gate of Mandvi Palace, aka Vijay Vilas Palace, onto 500m of unmetalled road to reach the resort. The palace and the resort are quite isolated. If you don’t have your own vehicle, you will need to call for a taxi to venture out. The resort can organise the taxi for you but it will come from Bhuj and you will have to pay extra for the 120-km distance to and from Bhuj (Rs 5 per km/ minimum fare Rs 1,500). The other option is to call Jai Hind Tours and Travels (Tel: 02834-231460), located opposite Hotel Sea View, Jain Dharamsala Road, in Mandvi. Indica (non-AC) taxis are available for Rs 1,500 for a day. AC taxis cost Rs 1,800; for shorter trips, the rates are negotiable.

The small town of Mandvi is 8 km to the north. ST Road, running along the Rukmavati River, is the centre of the town, offering a small hotel or two, a taxi stand and a bus stand, and unmetered autos. For autos, the usual charges are Rs 10 per km, and the minimum fare is at least Rs 20. Shipbuilding, Mandvi’s claim to some fame, also happens along this road. On the other side of the town are the Mandvi Beach and its tall windmills.

BEACH WATCH
The beach at the resort is safe for swimming. The water is calm, the waves not too high and there are no undercurrents. However, the water here is surprisingly cold and therefore swimming is comfortable only when the sun is bright. Also, the beach is usually secluded and there are no lifeguards, so it’s best not to be too adventurous.  Beachwear is common at the resort. Hardly anyone swims off the beach at Mandvi Town; dress conservatively here. 
This article appears in Outlook Traveller Getaways’ Beach Holidays in India . For more about the book, and more excerpts, click here.

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