VENGURLA
The Good Life
By Joan Pinto
High atop a lighthouse, in a little balcony circling its rotund, red-striped tower, the wind growls, tugging at me, daring me to fly. In front of me, the sea, a burnished liquid gold, stretches far over a horizon so curved I’m afraid the lonely boat on it will fall off. Holding the metal railing tight, I look down at the sheer drop, and the waves crashing against the hillock on which the lighthouse stands. This is how Christopher Columbus must’ve felt when he first saw ‘undiscovered’ land. And if you compare Vengurla to the touristy beaches, it indeed falls into the ‘undiscovered’ category. Rustic at heart, Vengurla is thankfully modest on touristy trappings, and also oblivious to its simple charms.
As I contemplate the sea, the echo of shouts distracts me. Down below, boats slice the waters as they approach a wooden pier, bringing in the day’s catch. Walking around the ‘deck’ to the other side, I spot the countryside, resplendent with rivers snaking past palms and greenery. Bordering it all, like a strip of lace, is the Sagareshwar Beach, one of the many undiscovered beaches in Vengurla.
As I climb down, the sea bids a momentary goodbye to the shore, leaving my poem — scribbled on the sand — untouched. A kingfisher calls from the trees behind me. I head to my cycle, anticipating the pleasures in store. I will leisurely ride past the village, back to my tent-house in the shadow of casuarinas, and to the simple yet exquisite delights of hot, delectable fish curry.
ORIENTATION
Vengurla is just over an hour’s drive from the Sawantwadi Railway Station. The road goes past Malgaon, down SH122, to the main town hugging the sea. Vengurla’s beaches — Vayangani, Sagareshwar, Mochemad, Sagarteerth, Shiroda-Velagar and Redi — lie in a line going south right down the coast of Maharashtra till they rub shoulders with Goa. The roads that lead to Vengurla’s main landmarks form a ‘T’, with the jetty and the lighthouse at one end, and the market at the other. The road to Sagareshwar and the stretch of Vengurla’s hidden beaches are all spread out within a 3-km radius.
The hotels are located around the jetty, the market and the beaches. The bus stand is in the middle of town and ST buses ply daily from here. Autorickshaws are the quickest way to get anywhere (a minimum of Rs 20 to Sagareshwar Beach or the jetty from the main market area). Autos don’t run on meter, so check rates with hotel officials before you hire one. You can also hire cycles from Sagareshwar Corner near the MTDC Tent Resort, or from small cycle stalls opposite Bamboo Inn, past the bus stand, or near the crossroads by the market; they come at Rs 4 an hr. The MTDC Tent Resort provides information to tourists.
BEACH WATCH
At all the beaches, there are huge waves at high tide, and therefore, swimming isn’t encouraged. Locals warn that there are undercurrents and sudden drops in the seabed, so it’s best not to wade too deep. Check with the manager at the MTDC Resort at Sagareshwar if and where it’s safe to swim. The office is open all day. There are no lifeguards at any of the beaches. It’s best to dress conservatively here.
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