Morning came sharp and quick. After a quick breakfast, we crisscrossed the area to visit a number of villages These ranged from the prosperous Dhordo, with its concrete bhungas that had tiled floors, Godrej almirahs and attached baths, to the more traditional Ludia, where the bhungas have been painted with natural colours.

Next, the Rann. The swift change in landscape is remarkable; the grass visibly thins out every few feet until only a carpet of short salt-resistant weeds remain, and then you are in the Rann. Thanks to heavy rainfall this year, the Rann was more marsh than salt desert and yet it was impressive. Ahead was absolute emptiness and, behind, grass, villages and life.

We then drove to Karo Dungar—Black Hill. Atop the hill is a temple dedicated to Dattatreya. We were rewarded with sweeping views of the Rann on one side and the Banni on the other. The temple is famous for an unusual ritual. After the aarti the priest takes the prasad a little away from the temple and sounds a gong at which foxes that live nearby come to feed on the offering. Only then are the devotees given prasad. Of course I didn’t believe the story. So I was surprised when immediately after sunset I heard the unmistakable howl of a fox. And I blinked a couple of times when I saw foxes emerging from the thick shrubs and eating the vegetarian food offered to them just yards away from where I stood. It was in this state of bewilderment that I reached the resort to another good but bland meal. I found out later that the cook was preparing bland food so as not to inconvenience his (frequently foreign) guests: if you prefer your food spicy, let them know. 

The final day was reserved for bird watching. We went to Vekeria Dhand, a shallow catchment of water close to the highway. Jugal Tiwari, an ornithologist and a member of the Bombay National History Society, runs the Centre for Desert and Ocean in nearby Moti Virani and was our guide for the day. He helped us spot a wide variety of birds, including the Eurasian Common Crane, a family of Rosy Pelicans and a large number of terns. We then started towards Chhari Dhand, a large wetland known for its abundance of bird life.

We were once again in the Rann. We drove over parched cracked earth and reached a vast expanse of grass and water. In the two hours that we spent there we saw not another human being. Though we saw very few birds too, I was not disappointed. The silence and stillness that I had come to associate with Kutch was exemplified here. Even our presence was an intrusion. As I stood there listening to the wind sing, I remembered Gagan’s songs about his harsh but beautiful homeland. The beauty of a land where herders wander for miles with their cattle in search of food, where women walk for hours only to fetch salty drinking water and where in summer the heat and dust burn your skin.

As we started our drive back to Bhuj, the sun set behind us bathing the landscape in a warm golden glow. Even the Rann looked subdued in the light of the setting sun.

THE INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
From Delhi Take a flight to Ahmedabad (Rs 2,899 one way on SpiceJet) and catch an air-conditioned sleeper bus to Bhuj (Swaminarayan Travels, 09825804762; Rs 350). The Shaam-e-Sarhad resort is 63km away. The resort arranges pick-up by taxi.
From Mumbai Fly to Bhuj (Rs 4,350 one way) on Jet Airways. Alternatively catch the Kutch Express (starts 5.10pm, arrives 9.20am; Rs 1,199 on 2A).

SHAAM-E-SARHAD RUAL RESORT
The resort offers three bhungas (Rs 2,800), six tents (Rs 1,800) and two family tents (Rs 3,000). Though all facilities like fans, western-style toilets and showers are available, the rooms are simple. Only vegetarian Kutchi food is served. Do ask the staff to arrange for a meal with a family in the village—it’s a great way to interact with the locals and you might also get to eat non-vegetarian food. The tariff includes meals and the folk music performances that are arranged each night. Contact: 02832-654124, 02803-296222, www.hodka.in.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE
Check out the unique embroidery and appliqué work in nearby villages. Go bird watching in Chhari Dhand and Vekeria Dhand. Birds seen here include Eurasian Common Cranes, Rosy Pelicans, Black Winged Stilts and Spoon Bills. The resort arranges birdwatching tours, but you can also contact Jugal Tiwari (9825248135) of the Centre for Desert and Ocean. You can also visit India Bridge, the last civilian point before Pakistan and the temple of Dattatreya atop Karo Dungar. Also go on a camel safari near Karo Dungar. Kutch’s clear skies are also ideal for some stargazing.

WHEN TO GO
October-April. The resort is shut during the monsoon.