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A couple of months back, my friend, who is stationed at Hong Kong, remarked –“Each time I need to de-stress, I take-off for Macau. After a weekend at the island, I feel rejuvenated enough to take on the world once again.” His statement left me is wondering only till I reached Macau.
It is a city that moves at a sedate pace. After the frenetic pace of Hong Kong, it comes as a blissful reprieve. With its lush landscapes, sandy shores, heritage buildings, beautiful gardens, luxury hotels, cross-continental cuisine, Macau has emerged as a tourist hot spot in the recent years.
A little less than an hour’s distance from Hong Kong lies the place which has a unique amalgamation of Asian and western cultures. It offers a touch of Portugal, blended with ancient and modern China. After more than four centuries of Portuguese rule, it was returned to China in 1999, much like Hong Kong went to China after the British rule.
Most tourists take the high-speed Turbojet ferry from Hong Kong and land at the Macau Terminal. Since the majority of Macau hotels have regular free services to the ferry, you can board their bus to reach the hotel. Macau is a tiny island, which can easily be covered on foot, if you have the energy to do so. Walking is the best way, in fact, to take in the beauty of the island. Embark on your sight seeing business from the Senado Square, which is located in the heart of the place. The wave-pattered paving of the square is distinctively Portuguese. Towering above the Senado Square is the landmark of Macau, the famous ‘Ruins of St Paul’. The church burnt down when struck by lightning during a typhoon in 1835 and only the imposing façade remains today. According to travellers of that time, the church, built in 1602, was made of taipa and wood. It was brilliantly decorated and furnished. The imposing façade of carved stone was built in 1620-27. It was designed by an Italian Jesuit, Carlo Spinola, with the assistance of Japanese Christian stonemasons who had fled persecution in Japan.
If you have the inclination for a steep climb, take the steps at the back of the façade and you will be rewarded with a bird’s eye view of the adjoining areas. The little Taoist temple, Na Tcha, lies to the left of the ruins. Built in 1888, the small traditional temple presents a contrast to the imposing façade of St. Paul’s Ruins. Amble down towards the St. Dominic’s Church, a marvellous example of baroque architecture built by the Dominican friars in the early 17th century. It was here that the first Portuguese newspaper was published on 12th September 1822, on the Chinese soil. The newspaper was known as the A Abelha da China (The China Bee).
The church has an imposing façade of cream coloured stone and white stucco mouldings. Inside, white pillars support a flat ceiling and apron balconies run along the wall. The bell tower, at the back of the building, has been modified into a small Museum of Sacred Art, now exhibiting a collection of artefacts. At a short walk from the Senado Square stands the neo-classical Leal Senado Building, Macau’s first municipal building, constructed in 1784. At this point of time, if you are tired, rest a while at one of the many bustling restaurants in the area or head to the cobble-stoned St Augustine’s Square for a conventional Portuguese streetscape.
UNESCO has recently declared the Historic Centre of Macau a World Heritage site. The centre is a living representation of Macau’s rich architectural legacy. Ringing the square are various classified buildings such as St. Augustine’s Church, Dom Pedro V Theatre, St. Joseph’s Seminary and Sir Robert Ho Tung Lbrary. Check out the St Augustine’s Church, which dates back to 1591 and has the distinction of organizing one of the most popular Easter processions through the city. The Sir Robert Ho Tung Chinese Library with its peaceful garden dotted with reading tables close by is an ideal retreat for the erudite. Sir Robert, a Hong Kong businessman, bought the house as a retreat in 1918 and left it to the Macau government in his will. The building was constructed before 1894 and was originally the residence of Dona Carolina Cunha. A stone’s throw away is the oldest European-style theatre in China, the green-painted Dom Pedro V Theatre built in 1858. It still hosts regular symphony concerts and other public events. St. Joseph’s Seminary, with its adjacent Church, built in 1758, is an exemplary model of baroque architecture in China. With this you would have finished the major Portuguese buildings in the area.
It is time to head towards the outer fringes to catch some action. If you’re not up for more walking grab a taxi, and head towards the Macau Tower area. If you turn to the right you would reach the well-guarded, yellow-and-white colonial home of the Portuguese consul-general (formerly the Bela Vista hotel), set in a quiet residential neighborhood. Not far from here, at Barra Point, is the famous A-Ma Temple, a must visit while at Macau. The temple has been built into a hill that rises from the waterfront of the inner harbour. It has pavilions on four levels. Linked by winding paths and moon-gates, three of the four pavilions are dedicated to the Toist goddess of A Ma (also called Tin Hau) and the topmost shrine is dedicated to Kun Iam, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. According to legend, A-Ma, a poor girl looking for passage to Canton, was snubbed by the wealthy junk owners but a lowly fisherman took her on board. A storm blew up and wrecked all but the boat carrying the girl. On arrival to Macau she vanished, to reappear as a goddess, on the spot where the fishermen built her temple. A series of prayer halls, pavilions and courtyards built into the boulder-strewn hill display the bright traditional Chinese colours of red and gold. The garden at the top provides a beautiful view of the adjoining areas.
After the A Ma Temple experience, don’t forget to check out the Moorish Barracks on Barra Street nearby. A neo-classical building “with a Moghul influence” dating back to 1874, originally built to accommodate an Indian regiment from Goa that was appointed to reinforce Macau’s police force at the time. Head for the famous Lou Lim Leoc Garden, if you need to feel rejuvenated. Originally built by a rich man named Lou Kau, it has miniaturised landscape of bamboo forests, pond sized lakes, moulded concrete mountains, viewing pavilions and moon-gates to frame the scenery. A nine-turn bridge zigzags across the pond to a large pavilion. According to legend, evil spirits can only move in straight lines and hence the zigzag path. Don’t be surprised if you find some Chinese men and women carrying caged birds, which they let off in the garden while they practice Tai Chi or sit around exchanging notes with friends. Each morning, much like we would take our dogs for a walk, they take their pet birds some fresh air and exercise.
Relaxed and rejuvenated, make your way towards the Macau Tower to catch some action. The 338 metres high Macau Tower is world 10th highest building. It is also the world’s highest commercial bungy jumping station. The father of Bungy Jumping, AJ Hackett along with Edison Chen, has broken two Guinness World Records at the Macau Tower. If you are too timid to try your hand at Bungy Jumping, you could do the Skywalk, which takes you on an exhilarating stroll along the outer rim of the tower.
Delve into the history and culture of the place with a visit to the museums in Macau. The Grand Prix Museum and the Wine Museum are a great experience while the magnificent Handover Museum with its display of exotic artifacts and the eye-popping exhibits at the Macau Museum are an absolutely must-see for the museum aficionado.
The island comes alive after the sun goes down. The nightlife is a vibrant one. Even the drabbest buildings become pulsating neon palaces. Dozens of bars, discos, nightclubs and casinos provide a pulsating experience for the night owls. Try not to miss ‘Crazy Paris Show’ at the Hotel Lisboa. A Macau experience is never complete without trying a hand at the gaming tables so head for one of the casinos for a unique gambling experience.
Reaching There – take the sleek speed boats called Turbojet Sea Express, from Hong Kong piers for an hour long ride on the sea to Macau. If you prefer the air, take a helicopter ride from Hong Kong to Macau, and enjoy the fantastic view.
Staying There – Macau has a host of hotels right from the budget hotels to the top class ones, to choose from. For a luxurious experience you could opt for the Wynn or Lisboa or the Grand Emperor. Most of them also have their own casinos.
Nearby Places – take a day trip to Coloane, an island in Macau that boasts of magnificent beaches and a lavish, green countryside that has a rich flora and fauna. The island has sports facilities, tennis courts, swimming pools, and Karting Tracks. Visit Taipa for a laid-back feel. Take a stroll down its historical centre with ubiquitous cookie and cake shops, quaint traditional shops and a relaxed pace. The old Praia waterfront is idyllic, with a row of five beautifully restored old neo-classical houses, grassy areas and benches to mellow out on.
Gastronomic Fare – Macau offers all kinds of food experiences from the Portuguese to the Chinese, Malay and Thai. While on food, don’t forget to sample the Portuguese wine and the Macanese fare, which is a confluence of Portuguese and Chinese food. Down it all with Portuguese red wine, ending with the delectable dessert called Serradurra. The Macau food experience is never complete without the taste of dim sums so indulge and enjoy.
Retail Therapy - You can buy electronic items, porcelain and ceramic ware, clothes and jewellery from the hundreds of shops all around the downtown area. Chinese antiques are a must buy and so is the reasonably priced Portuguese wine. Check out the flea market and night markets for good bargain. |
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